Painting Miniatures Figures Made Quick And Easy

Khorne

• Polly S Dragon Red for any armor, bloodletters, flesh hounds etc. THis gets washed with Liquitex Payes Grey for the shadows and highlighted back with the orignal color. If I want to get brighter, I mix in some orange.
• Black for weapons and armor sometime. This should be fairly self explainatory.
• Polly S Brass or Citadel Burnished Gold for my metal work. I just recently discovered the Polly S Brass and it goes on very smoothly and is very bright when it dries.

Painting a Bloodletter

1. Prime white.
2. Basecoat Polly S Dragon Red.
3. Basecoat the sword black and paint the mouth black also.
4. Wash the entire model with Liquitex Paynes Grey.
5. Drybrush the body with Polly S Dragon Red. Add a little orange if you want to really brighten it up.
6. Paint the bracers or spiky crowns Polly S Brass.
7. Highlight the edges of their swords with a little green, blue, red, or grey depending on how you feel.
8. Paint bony horns with Snake Bite Leather then blend up into Bleached Bone.
9. Pick out teeth in white.
10. Pick out the eyes in bright blue. This is a personal preference of mine because I wanted the crazed eyes to really stand out. You can always do them in another color.
11. Base.
12. Seal.

Tzeentch

• For demons of Tzeentch or any magic constructs like my chariot conversion, I like to stay to pink highlighted to white and light blue highlighted to white. To me they are really electric colors that kind of capture the feeling that these creatures are made from pure magic.
• For champions, I like to use purple or blue with yellow or white. Staying to these four color combinations keeps the general theme of my army pretty constant.
• Citadel has a nice range of metallics that work well in these combinations.

Painting a Sorcerer of Tzeentch

1. Prime white.
2. Basecoat.
• Scale armour with Citadel Polished Blue (Metallic).
• Remaining armor in Polly S Kirin Yellow Gold.
• Exposed skin in Citadel Bronzed Flesh.
• Handle of mace in Polly S Centaur Brown.
• Head of mace Polly S Aluminum.
• Platform of disk in Polly S Dragon Red.
• Bags and pouches in green.
3. Wash everything except the exposed skin and the armor painted in yellow with Liquitex Paynes Grey.
4. Wash everything else with Liquitex Raw Siena.
5. Highlight the exposed flesh and yellow armor with the orignal color.
6. Edge the base of the disc in Polly S Brass.
7. The scroll can be painted with Snakebite leather and highlighted up with Bleached Bone.
8. To paint books, I usually paint the pages in white and wash with a very diluted brown. The cover is whatever color i want washed as applicable.
9. Paint over the symbols of Tzeentch on the breastplate and his forehead with a dark blue then touch up with Polly S Dragon Blue to highlight it.
10. Base.
11. Seal.

Nurgle

Slaanesh

Just remember that adding white to almost any color will pastel it. When I paint Slaaneshi champions, I start out with the basecoats as I would with any other figure. For the highlights however, instead of using a lighter shade of the same color, I'll use white and highlight up until I'm using pure white.

Other colors that go well with Slaanesh are the metallics range by Citadel, especially the green, blue, and purple. Either apply the metallic then mix with silver to highlight, or wash with Liquitex Paynes Grey to darken and add shadows.

Minotaurs and Beastmen

I like to paint minotaurs and beastmen in dark natural colors such as brown and greys. Their gear can be picked out is the colors of you army or they can be made more neutral so that you can field them with a wider variety of armies. This particular minotaur was ridiculously easy to paint because of the large size and good relief of detail.

• Prime black.
• Drybrush Polly S Hobgoblin Grey-Black over the entire figure.
• Adding a little white with each step, add successive layers of lighter grey. I finally stopped with almost pure white at the hairy ridge on his back.
• Paint the "diapers" and his bracers dark brown. Highlight with a lighter brown.
• Paint the swords and the cap on the end of his horn Polly S Aluminum.
• Wash those areas with Liquitex Paynes Grey.
• Pick out all the studs and metal discs with Polly S Brass.
• Paint the horns Snakebite Leather and highlight up to Bleached Bone.
• Pick out the toenails and teeth in Bleached Bone.
• Paint just a bit of dark red-brown along the very tips of the swords to simulate some blood.
• Paint the eyes red and pick out the pupil in orange or yellow.
• Base.
• Seal.

Harpies

• Prime the wings black and the body white.
• Basecoat the entire body Polly S Raw Sienna.
• Wash the entire body with Liquitex Raw Umber.
• Pick out the teeth in Bleached Bone.
• Paint the hair dark purple.
• Drybrush the hair white mixed with just a hint of purple.
• Paint the horns and claws Snakebite Leather and highlight up to Bleached Bone.
• If you want, paint just a bit of dark red-brown along the very tips of the claws to simulate some blood.
• Attach the wings now. Be careful here, paint will be on the pin and socket and you may have to scrape some of it off or enlarge the socket.
• Brybrush the tips and edges of the wings a dark blue to give it some color.
• Pick out the wing horns in bone as before.
• Paint the eyes red.
• Base.
• Seal.

With Chaos, let you imagination run wild. A good source of information in nature books if you want to research tiger stripes or claws. It's worthwhile just to take the minute and get a good idea of what a tiger really looks like for example, before you paint something bright orange with black stripes.

Notes